How to Enlarge Plush Sewing Patterns Without Ending Up With a Monster Head

Enlarging a plush or soft toy pattern sounds simple. Pop it on the copier, hit 120%, and off you go. Sometimes that works beautifully.

And sometimes you end up with a toy that looks… slightly off. Or worse, a complicated toy where pieces that used to meet perfectly now refuse to cooperate.

The sneaky issue is this: When you enlarge a pattern, you also enlarge the seam allowance.

That’s the bit that catches people out, especially with plush patterns that have lots of pieces, curves, and seams that need to match exactly.

If your toy is simple and forgiving (think: fewer parts, softer shaping), it matters less. If your toy has lots of parts that have to line up exactly (trunks, gussets, multi-piece heads, detailed faces), seam allowance changes can cause real headaches.

Trunk show has a complex five part under gusset where pieces need to meet

Why seam allowance causes problems when you scale a pattern

Most plush patterns include seam allowance, often 1/4 inch (6 mm). When you enlarge the pattern, the seam allowance becomes bigger too.

That means:

• Your overall finished toy gets bigger, yes

• But the seams also “steal” more fabric than intended

• The more seams a section has, the more the size can drift (More seams, more trouble).

This is why heads can go rogue. A multi-piece head can grow out of proportion compared to arms and legs, because it has more seam lines contributing to the final shape.

In other words, the more pieces and seams you have in one area, the more scaling changes can snowball.

The two reliable ways to enlarge plush patterns (without wrecking the proportions)

There isn’t one “right” method, but these are two approaches that consistently work for me.

Method 1: Enlarge as-is, then fix the seam allowance

This is the method many makers use because it’s quick and practical.

1. Enlarge the pattern pieces at your chosen percentage.

2. Before cutting fabric, redraw or trim the seam allowance back to your original seam allowance (for example, back to 1/4 inch).

This keeps the new size, but restores the original seam allowance so the pattern behaves as intended.

Tip: If you’re printing at home, it helps to have a 1 inch test square on the pattern so you can confirm your scaling is accurate.

Method 2: Remove seam allowance first, then add it back after enlarging

This is the “pattern drafting” way and it’s the cleanest if you want accuracy.

1. Trace the original pattern pieces.

2. Remove the seam allowance (trace the stitching line instead of the cut line).

3. Enlarge the stitching line pieces.

4. Add your seam allowance back in (usually 1/4 inch).

This method is especially good for complicated plush patterns, because it keeps everything true on the seam line, which is what actually matters.

The extra step that saves your sanity: measure on the seam line, not the edge

If you’re ever unsure whether two pieces will fit together after scaling, measure them on the seam line (stitching line), not the cut edge.

Two pieces can look “close enough” on the outside edge, but still be mismatched where it counts.

When you can ignore all this and just wing it

Sometimes you can absolutely enlarge a simple plush pattern and just sew it with a regular 1/4 inch seam allowance without doing any extra pattern work.

This tends to work when:

• The toy has fewer pieces

• There aren’t lots of seams converging in one area

• The shapes are forgiving (rounder forms, fewer sharp joins)Round shapes, fewer seams make Salty an easy pattern to upsize

Watch-outs and common “why does this look weird?” moments

1. Heads get too big

Very common with multi-piece heads. Even when you fix seam allowance, you may find a straight enlargement makes the head look oversized on a bigger body.

It’s normal to scale the head slightly less than the body for larger plush toys, depending on the style you want.

2. Snouts and small details can get weird when reducing

If you reduce a pattern, small features can become too short or too tight, especially on faces. Limbs can become very difficult to turn right side out.

3. Copier and printer distortion is real

Some copiers/printers don’t keep perfect proportions. You can end up with a plush that is wider or taller than intended.

Easy check:

• Include a 1 inch (or 2 cm) square on the pattern

• Measure it after printing

• If it’s off, your whole pattern is off

Scaling tips that make a big difference

• If you’re making several sizes, scale from the original each time (don’t scale the 120% version up again to get 150%).

• Add a test square to every pattern piece before you start.

• Do a quick paper check: lay pieces together roughly and make sure seam lines look like they’ll meet.

• For complicated patterns: choose Method 2 (remove seam allowance first). It’s slower, but you’ll swear less.

A real example: Tomayto Tomato Pouch

This is a simple shape, so it scales beautifully. I enlarged it to 120% and 150% and still sewed with a regular 1/4 inch seam allowance, no drama.

Complicated plush toys don’t always play as nicely, but for simple patterns like this, enlarging can be an easy way to make a bigger size without redrafting the whole thing.

Quick FAQ

What percentage should I enlarge to?

Common jumps:

• 110% for a subtle increase

• 120% for a noticeable size change

• 150% for a much bigger version

If you go very large, expect to check proportions (especially heads).

Does enlarging change the look of the toy?

It can. Larger toys sometimes need slightly different proportions to keep the design looking “right,” especially faces and head-to-body balance.

What’s the best method for complex plush patterns?

Remove seam allowance, enlarge, then add seam allowance back (Method 2). Most accurate.

If things go wrong, just call it a design evolution. But ideally, check the seam allowance first.